Kiwame Tokyo's latest watch collection, the KUBO, is a testament to the brand's unique approach to Japanese design philosophy. The collection's central concept revolves around the abstract Japanese idea of 'kubo' - a recessed space or hollow, where beauty lies in the shadows and atmosphere it creates. This concept is seamlessly integrated into every aspect of the watch, from the lacquered dial to the carefully proportioned case, resulting in a design that feels distinctly Japanese without relying on obvious visual clichés.
The KUBO measures 37mm across, 45mm lug-to-lug, and just 9.3mm thick, with a domed sapphire crystal bringing the overall height to 10.7mm. This combination of dimensions and materials gives the watch a dress-watch aesthetic, but the case design broadens its appeal beyond formal wear. A vertically brushed flat bezel introduces a subtle field-watch character, while the polished surfaces and glossy dial beneath maintain refinement.
The dial is a masterpiece in itself, with multiple layers of lacquer creating a rich, glossy surface. Breguet-style applied Arabic numerals and broad syringe-style hands sit atop this surface, with a deeply recessed small-seconds display that deliberately omits any printed seconds track. The three colourways - TETSUKON (blue), USUKI (ivory), and SAKURA (pink) - each develop this theme in different directions, showcasing Kiwame Tokyo's attention to detail and ability to create subtle yet decorative representations of Japanese heritage.
Inside the KUBO lies the Miyota 82S5 automatic movement, offering approximately 42 hours of power reserve while beating at 21,600 Vph. This movement is a reliable and accurate choice, keeping the watch accessible while providing the characteristic off-centre small-seconds layout.
The strap is a smooth, pebbled Italian calf-leather strap fitted with quick-release spring bars, complementing the polished case and lacquer dial without competing for attention. The neutral colours ensure each dial remains the visual focus, with subtle variations in stitch colour giving each watch a distinctive character.
In my opinion, Kiwame Tokyo has once again successfully translated Japanese ideas into original watch design. The KUBO collection is a confident step along the path of developing a recognisable identity, with a clearly defined design philosophy and a distinctive visual identity. The recessed small-seconds display is a testament to this, becoming the organising principle for the entire watch, influencing every aspect of the design. The result is a cohesive and thoughtful watch that stands out in a fiercely competitive microbrand market.
